Guldaar Basera lit at dusk on a forested Himalayan hillside

Himalayan
Homestay

Guldaar
Basera

In the hills of Ranikhet, Uttarakhand

5,400 feet above sea level

From ₹8,000 per night · all meals included

Our eco-friendly home in the middle Himalaya — built from a decade-long yearning to return to the ancestral roots left behind three generations ago. A home before it is a homestay.

Each named for
the Kumaon it holds

Three distinct double bedrooms on a private luxury floor, carrying the spirit of the hills in their design. Every stay includes vegetarian home cooking, curated village walks and experiences, and access to a well-stocked library in the attic.

'Mehal', the luxury en-suite double room at Guldaar Basera — teak bed against a hand-blocked floral panel, mint brick wall, sunrise-facing windows and a woven jute rug

'Mehal'

₹9,000 per night

  • Double bedroom · 20 sqm
  • East-facing · sunrise
  • En-suite bathroom
  • Block-print textiles
'Fyonli', a luxury double room at Guldaar Basera — carved teak bed against a saffron brick accent wall, block-print quilt, pine panelling and a west-facing sunset window

'Fyonli'

₹8,000 per night

  • Double bedroom · 13 sqm
  • West-facing · sunset
  • Shared bathroom
  • Yellow brick accent wall
'Buransh', a luxury double room at Guldaar Basera — sage green brick wall, brass wall lights, floral bedding and a bright green writing desk by the curtained window

'Buransh'

₹8,000 per night

  • Double bedroom · 17 sqm
  • Shared bathroom
  • Sage green brick wall
  • Floral bedding

Best Value

Entire Luxury Floor

₹21,000 per night

3 bedrooms · 2 bathrooms · living room · kitchen · private sit-outs

Everything you
share

At the Table

Fully Vegetarian Pahadi Home Cooking North & South Indian Aloo ke Gutke Bhaang ki Chutney Nimbu Saan Pahadi Loon

Forest, hills &
wild neighbours

We sit at 5,400 feet in Malla Biswa — a quiet ancestral village five kilometres from Ranikhet. Pine and oak cover the hillside. The air carries birdsong and woodsmoke. And somewhere in the forest that wraps around us, leopards move at night.

We named this place Guldaar Basera — Leopard's Rest — because we share this land with them. They roam free around us. That is the compact.

Summer Apr – Jun Mild and pleasant, cool evenings
Monsoon Jul – Sep Lush and romantic, forest in full voice
Winter Oct – Mar Fireplace-bound, possible snowfall
Snow-covered Himalayan peaks seen from Ranikhet
A trail through the pine forest around the house
Forest reflected in a still pond
Himalayan peaks framed by pine branches
Pine needles and undergrowth on the forest floor
Guldaar Basera at dusk, lights on against the hillside

Go deeper into
this land

Two ways to truly know where you are — one into the wild, one into the living culture of Kumaon.

Walking the trails around Guldaar Basera
Wildlife & Nature

Guldaar Territory

Leopards live in the forest that surrounds us — not as a spectacle, but as neighbours. Learn to read the land they move through: the particular silence that falls when they are near. Walk the hidden trails through pine groves and discover birds, plants and a habitat that has its own unhurried logic.

  • Hidden trail walks through pine groves
  • Birdwatching — resident and migratory species
  • Understanding forest ecology and leopard territory
  • Evening watch from the sit-out
Village life around Ranikhet
Heritage & Culture

Ranikhet Unlocked

Most visitors see the cantonment and leave. With Alka, you meet the Ranikhet that lives behind the tourist surface — living craft, local people, and places that don't announce themselves. These are introductions, not tours.

  • KRC Woollen Factory — women-led, working looms
  • Ranikhet heritage museums & cantonment history
  • Village walk through Malla Biswa (included in every stay)
  • Temple circuit — Jhula Devi, Chitai Golu, Katarmal & more
  • Kumaoni cooking class — aloo ke gutke, bhaang ki chutney

CCTV footage · Guldaar Basera · Late night visitor

They come when
we sleep

This is our CCTV footage. A leopard — one of at least twelve that move through this territory — passing by our balcony in the night. We don't track them or promise sightings. We simply live here, and so do they.

Alka Joshi Kaushik, the host at Guldaar Basera, under a ginkgo tree in autumn
30+ Years Travel Journalist Author & Translator 20+ Books Translated 24+ Countries

Alka Joshi
Kaushik

Alka has spent thirty years telling India to itself in Hindi — through radio, broadcast, and print. She has travelled every state of India but two, and more than twenty-four countries. She has translated over twenty books from English to Hindi, including the autobiographies of heads of government bodies, and has been recognised as an expert in Hindi travel writing.

Awarded for promoting inclusiveness and reducing the digital divide through her work. Featured among India's best travel bloggers, hosted at national and international travel, literary and cultural events. And then she came home — to Malla Biswa, the village her family left three generations ago — and built Guldaar Basera.

Expeditions

  • Siachen Glacier Trek with the Indian Army
  • Askot–Arakot Abhiyan with PAHAR
  • Mt. Kailash–Mansarovar Yatra with MEA, India

The things people
write in about

Where exactly are you, and how far is Ranikhet?
We are in Malla Biswa, a village in Almora district, five kilometres from Ranikhet — close enough that the town is a short drive when you want it, far enough that you cannot hear it.

The house sits at 5,400 feet on a pine and oak hillside. What is around you is forest and village, not a market road.
How do we get there?
The short answer is the pin. Open our listing on Google Maps and send it to whoever is driving before you set off — Malla Biswa is a village, and searching for the name alone will not put anyone at our gate. If you are bringing your own car, there is parking here on the property.

By train, the railhead is Kathgodam, about three and a half hours from us by road. By air it is Pantnagar, about four. A good many guests drive up from Delhi instead, which is a full day's drive.

We can arrange a car to meet you and will coordinate it on your behalf. Price and availability come from the operator, so both are best confirmed when you book — as a guide, recent trips have run in the region of ₹2,300 from Kathgodam and ₹13,000 from Delhi.

The last stretch is a village road rather than a highway. Tell us how you are coming and roughly when you expect to arrive, and we will talk you through it — and we would always rather you got here in daylight.
What does a stay cost, and what is included?
₹8,000 a night for 'Buransh' or 'Fyonli', ₹9,000 for 'Mehal', which has its own bathroom. That is the price of the room, not the price per person.

It includes every meal — breakfast, lunch, dinner, and the tea and snacks in between — along with Wi-Fi, power backup, kitchen access, the library and board games in the attic, and one guided walk through the village with us.

There is no separate charge for any of that, and no service fee on top. If you are staying seven nights or more, tell us and we will make it worth your while.
How many of us can stay?
Six adults and three children across the whole floor. Each room takes two adults and one child.

Taken together the three rooms are the entire floor — three bedrooms, two bathrooms, a living room, a kitchen and the private sit-outs — and a family or a group of friends can have the whole of it to themselves. Taken as a whole it is ₹21,000 a night, rather than the ₹25,000 the three rooms come to booked separately.
Is there step-free access?
No. The bedrooms require a flight of stairs to reach, so the house is not step-free.

We would rather tell you now than have you find out when you arrive. If you are unsure whether that will suit you, say so when you write to us and we will describe the climb honestly.
How do we book?
By asking us, not by pressing a button. There is no instant-confirmation engine here — you send us your dates and we come back to you with what is free.

The enquiry form on this page is the fullest way to do it: it takes about two minutes and asks for your dates, how many of you there are, what you eat and which room you have your eye on. WhatsApp and the phone work just as well if you would rather talk. Alka reads every one of these herself.

A submitted form is a request, not a reservation, until we have written back. Check-in is from 2:00 PM and check-out is 11:00 AM. We take UPI, bank transfer or cash.
Is the food vegetarian?
Our kitchen is. Every meal we cook — breakfast, lunch, dinner, and the tea and snacks in between — is vegetarian Pahadi home cooking, made fresh here rather than ordered in.

You are welcome to bring non-vegetarian food and cook it yourself; kitchen access comes with every stay. What we cannot do is cook it for you. Our staff have never worked with it, and we would rather tell you that now than have them learn on your dinner.

The same goes for anything you would like to drink with dinner — bring it up with you. One tip from experience: buy it in Haldwani on the drive rather than in Ranikhet, where we have found the quality less dependable.
Can we bring our dog?
Not at the moment. There are leopards moving through the forest around the house, and a dog on the property is not a risk we are willing to take with someone's pet.
Will we see a leopard?
Probably not, and we will not promise you one. At least twelve move through this territory and our CCTV picks them up on the balcony at night, but we do not track them or bait them. You are far more likely to hear one than see one — which is, we think, the better story.

Tell us when you'd
like to come

Dates, how many of you, what you eat, and which room you have your eye on. Alka reads every one of these herself and comes back with availability and a plan for your days here.

Enquiry form

About two minutes · no account needed

Just have a question? Message us on WhatsApp or call +91 7579194674.

All meals included, host-guided walks & nature's serenity

Enquire